How To Clean Your Rifle With Aero Kroil

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I accept a Mauser that REALLY needs a severe diameter cleaning. I have tried Butch's, Hoppes Copper solvent, Ed's Red, yet getting black crap out with using all the above with a contumely castor. The barrel is in skilful looking shape except I can't get patches to quit coming out cruddy. I kid not when I judge 200 patches.
Try JB Bore Cleaner, the paste stuff. Information technology is just the thing for getting 50+ years worth of pulverization and jacket fouling out of a Mauser barrel.
Simply my .02,
LeonCarr
Kroil is skillful...
every bit a penetrant--it worms its way into microscopic spaces (like betwixt two close-fit gun parts for example) so equally to lube them when they motion. Some benchrest shooters practise clean with Kroil. Notwithstanding, their guns aren't "really in need of a severe diameter cleaning."

You lot could try Kroil, in the "Tin't hurt, might help" department. Having bought a can of it, y'all'll find information technology useful as an fantabulous light lubricant, if nothing else.

For really muddy bores my become-to cleaner is Blue Wonder gel. Put it in the bore, leave for the recommended time, run a brush into the bore several strokes, and then patch out the resultant gunk. Usually works wonders.

Lately I've been having good luck with the foaming diameter cleaners, too--spray it downwards the diameter, wait the prescribed time, castor & patch it out.

Something else that sometimes works is the old-fashion armed services bore cleaner (not the kinder, gentler stuff they use now) merely I tin can't advise where to lay yr hands on a tin of information technology.

Anyhow, proficient luck, Skidoo Homo 603. A really old, fouled, pitted, dirty diameter (I'm guessing this is an quondam milsurp Mauser you accept) can be a existent claiming to get bright.

Terminal edited: Dec 30, 2009
When yous call up your bore is clean, run a patch with Kroil down information technology, it'south non...
I think I would try a foam cleaner like Joe suggested.
I honey kroil for breaking stuck bolts out of the rust, but it's high-octane and extremely toxic. You lot should never use information technology without gloves, and the idea of leaving information technology on the metal every bit a lube strikes me as a good style to become a rash.
Use CLP for lube.
I had the aforementioned trouble with a 91/xxx - finally tried the homemade electrolysis bore cleaner - couple of batteries, steel rod o-ringed off from the butt and a plug at the chamber end. It got a remarkable amount of crud out, follwed upwardly with a foaming bore cleaner. It'lll never exist factory make clean again but information technology was worth the endeavor.
/Bryan
If y'all are using copper solvent and bronze brush than some of the dirt comes from the brush being melted by your solvent.
If you want to cut down on the amount of patches, make sure that after a wet patch you wait ten minutes or so to allow the solvent do it's work and than run a dry out one.
The longest information technology took me to clean a bore was 3 days on Mosin Nagant 91/xxx. I could literally see the copper by the crown. It's also a adept idea to shoot the rifle than clean, shoot clean and then on and eventually information technology'll all come out.
With copper solvent using a nylon brush. Cheers Have flirted with the electro clean method. With the # of mil-surps I ain would be a corking investment.
penetration -oil
"Smoky Joe" is right on Kroil being an efficient penetrating oil.
It gets into microscopic spaces over time; like the interface between your primers and their seats.

If you utilise it for any of your self defense firearms or large and unsafe
guns, please consider that you might be meliorate off not using it.

Sometimes, '603, the Aluminum cleaning rods will produce "blackness crap" on the cleaning patches. Try some brass rods if you are using the Al ones.
Nothin just one slice coated cleaning rods Thanks
I second the JB bore paste. Wrap a patch effectually an undersize bore castor that is a snug fit in the diameter with the patch. Work the paste into the patch and practice ten full length strokes (back and along is i stroke). Change the patch and repeat every bit necessary. This will let you to clean the bore without removing the copper from any pits that may exist in the bore. Some folks want to leave the barrel "seasoned".
For complete copper removal the most aggressive, prophylactic bore cleaner for copper fouling I accept institute is KG Industries KG12. A practiced full general purpose cleaner is Boretech Eliminator. Neither contains ammonia.

I apply Brownells strong nylon brushes to apply the solvents (five strokes back and forth). I clean first with Boretech to get the carbon out then a dry patch or two. If the Boretech turns blue on the patches there is copper fouling then I apply KG12 followed by a couple of dry patches. After that I run a patch of Boretech down the butt and see if information technology still shows blue (information technology almost never does later the KG12). If information technology does I utilize the KG12 again until a patch of Boretech doesn't show colour. I leave each solvent in the bore about 10 minutes.

The Boretech is a pretty skilful copper remover in its ain right but I haven't plant anything that works on copper as fast and completely as KG12. Co-ordinate to its maker it was developed for cleaning the bores of artillery pieces. Brownells sells both of these cleaners.
Plug the butt at the muzzle. Make full the bore with Kroil, then stand the burglarize upright - muzzle down, expect a few days.
So a tight patch/jag. Information technology volition really push button out anything that isn't attached to the bore -including copper. Works very well.
I perform this method on used rifles and take recovered major accuracy.
I accept been using Aero-Kroil for years and have never developed any "rash" from the stuff; at present the MEK nosotros used for years ( along with the MPK ) is another story altogether.:banghead: deadly
Bore paste or some Comet/Bon-Ami as well works great, but get it out with water.
More often than not I don't use a metal brush on a bore, but I think a "Tornado" brush would exist in the works.
Second the motion...
Beretta Shotgun--Yeah, Tornado brushes are (Tony the Tiger vox) GRRRRR-consume!!! (/Tony the Tiger voice)

I don't utilize 'em on a regular basis--just when there is serious fouling, nada beats 'em for mechanical removal.

Kroil has never bothered my skin, either. Simply some folks are more sensitive than others.

Last edited: Dec 30, 2009
I'k a sensitive kinda guy... Filled her upward with the Kroil last dark afterward running the JB paste through her Thank you one and all for the input. This rifle is 100% matching with pretty forest. Shot real well fifty-fifty with the black cruddy butt. For $250 she was a steal
I usr hoppes/kroil at fifty/50. Worke great. Later on i call up i have the diameter make clean, i soak it upwardly once more and let it set overnight. Nope, wasnt quite clean just information technology is now.
:banghead: We demand photos.
It's just that I'yard embarrased CZ cuz my photography skills are not upward to yours Friend
I've had good success with Outers Foaming Bore Cleaner on really fouled barrels. I let it sit for a half 60 minutes, run a bore snake through it from the breech (which is like a brush and a whole bunch of patches, simply takes a whole lot less time), and repeat every half hour, washing the bore snake after each cleaning cycle. You can exercise that all day if need be. Sounds similar what you've already tried is working pretty well, though.
I have the photography skills of a brick. I just have a camera that does all the work.
What ya using for a camera ?
I idea everybody mixed Kroil with Shooter'southward Selection MC#7 or Butch's Bore Smoothen. I guess not.
www.bordenrifles.com/clean.pdf